Sweet Potatoes

photo by Anne

Sweet Potato in jar

Did you know sweet potatoes can be grown in the Central Valley of CA? In fact, Merced County (USDA Zone 9) is home to many sweet potato growers and packers. If you live in another area of the world, it’s important to note that sweet potatoes need to grow in a warm climate for at least 4 months.

To start sweet potatoes, you’ll need ”slips,” which are pieces of sweet potato vine that have roots. In some states, you can order slips shipped directly to you at the correct planting time, but this isn’t allowed in California due to Agriculture Safety laws. Luckily, it’s easy to grow your own slips. Buy an organic sweet potato at the store, (regular sweet potatoes are sprayed with chemicals that slow sprouting) and put the potato in a jar  of water. The potato will begin to produce vines. Once the vines are 4-5 inches long, gently remove them and place them in a jar of water. When these vines grow roots, they are considered “slips.” Plant slips with the roots just below the surface of the soil in rows 3 feet apart. Plant in late April to mid May. Keep the soil moist until plants are established.

photo by Anne
Young sweet potato plant

Sweet potatoes will be ready in fall. Once vines begin to die stop watering and then harvest. A 10 foot row produces about 4-8 pounds of potatoes in mid to late fall. Interestingly enough, you can also harvest and cook the sweet potato vines, which when sautéed taste like spinach.

One thing you may not know about sweet potatoes is that they can be eaten raw. Yes, you read it right! I once cut one up and offered it to friends who ate them without comment, assuming they were carrots. Imagine their look of surprise when I told them what they ate! Sweet potatoes are high in potassium, fiber, Vitamin ‘A’ and many other nutrients. And sweet potato fries are easy to make and delicious. Slice up a few, shake them in a container with olive oil and salt and then bake in the oven at 450°F for 20 minutes or until tender.  Enjoy!

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Spring Seed Starting 101 Part 2 of 2

photo by Anne

Pepper Transplant

After seeds germinate, use a complete houseplant fertilizer at 1/2
strength to provide nutrients. Two weeks later, use the recommended fertilizer  rate on the fertilizer bottle. Over-fertilizing seedlings can easily damage and  kill plants, so follow directions carefully.

Once seedlings are large enough to transplant outside, you’ll need
to “harden” them off. This is the process of gradually exposing  seedlings to cooler weather. Before you start the process, water seedlings less  often but don’t let them wilt. About two weeks before you plant, set plants  outside in a shady, protected place on days when weather is above 45 degrees F and not windy for 2-3 hours. Gradually increase exposure to sunlight then plant
into your garden.

Your vegetable garden needs to be ready for your plants, so add  2-3 inches of compost and work it into the soil. Then, dig a hole the size of  your transplant’s root ball (area of soil and roots), and set plant in the hole.  Cover around sides with soil and firm gently. Do not add soil over the top of  the root ball, as this will prevent water from reaching the roots.

Once you’ve planted your transplants, curious and hungry creatures may visit. Keep  an eye out for snails and slugs, birds, and rollie pollies, caterpillars and  earwigs. If chewing damage appears and you aren’t sure about the culprit, take  a look outside with a flashlight at night. If you find a pest and can’t  identify it, take it to a local nursery and ask a certified nursery  professional, or call your local Cooperative Extension Office and ask if they have Master Gardeners who can help.

For information on controlling snails and slugs, read out my post “Build  Yer Own Beer Snail Trap.” Read my post “Roly  Polys, Rollie Pollies and Pillbugs Oh My!” if you see these critters  around. Earwigs and pillbugs like to nibble on tiny green plants. For  caterpillars use an organic control called Bt. I have white crown sparrows in my garden that enjoy eating my seedlings so I cage over them with chicken wire until they are older.

I hope to hear from you about the wonderful produce you’ll soon be  enjoying in your garden. Please drop me a line and/or send photos.

Read the first post in this series Spring Seed Starting 101 Part 1 of 2 here.

 

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Spring Seed Starting 101 Part 1 of 2

photo by Jim Schellman

Is it time to start seeds in your area? To find out, click here.  Then, count back 6-10 weeks from when you plan to plant. This will give you a date range for when to start seeds.

Choose seed packets with instructions that say ”sow in spring” or ”plant when soil is warm.”  Seeds for root vegetables such as beets, carrots, radishes, etc. are best planted directly in the ground, as the roots grow larger than the containers.  Crops like corn are too labor intensive to transplant and should be planted directly in soil once outdoor temperatures reach 60 degrees.

Many items can be used as containers for starting seeds, as long as they have drainage Continue reading

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How to Plant “Irish” Potatoes

photo by Anne

Colorful Potatoes

Hands down, “Irish” potatoes are THE most fun to grow of all vegetables. Not only are they easy to grow, harvesting is like digging for buried treasure. Kids and adults alike go crazy when digging them up. At some point you may need to take the shovel away before they dig up your entire garden!

In USDA Zone 9 plant potatoes now through early March. In Zones 1-7, plant in spring. Warmer zones can plant in fall or early winter.

Purchase “seed” potatoes (actually just potatoes) from a local nursery, online or through a catalog. These potatoes are certified disease-free and coated in a protective fungicide to prevent potato blight and other diseases (wash your hands after planting).  Avoid using potatoes from other sources like the grocery store, as you could introduce pests and Continue reading

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